Hungary Day 1–A first taste of Hortobágyi

Sun 5 May 2013

My birding began early – 2:30 in the morning! A black redstart was delivering his whistling song and peculiar crackling noises from right outside my window. The lights around the hotel swimming pool presumably confusing it into thinking it was daytime. It was in the nearby tree, but I could not locate it.
 
Black redstart at Hotel Villa VolgyAt 5:00am I met Steve on the steps outside the hotel, and whilst we waited for David we heard nightingale and cuckoo. The nightingale showed on a wooden fence, scolding one of the hotel cats. The black redstart was singing from the aerial on the hotel roof.
 
Once David arrived we began a slow stroll along Tulipántkert Street, a wooded lane leading from the hotel. The dawn chorus was well underway – blackbird, great tit, robin, chiffchaff an nightingale were all singing well. In the dull morning light an unusual bird in a fir tree in the distance was difficult to identify (especially as none of us had our ‘scopes). As we edged closer we could see that it was a wryneck, a nice bird to get so early on our trip.
 
At the end of the metalled road linnet and tree sparrow were spotted. A path continued through a short wooded section and then emerged into more open countryside. The reeling of a distant grasshopper warbler could be heard as could turtle dove, which was eventually found perched on a wire some way off. A pair of red-backed shrike were a splendid sight, as were golden orioles chasing each other around through the trees.
 
As we retraced our steps back to the hotel for breakfast, a local let out his herd of goats, which included a very smelly Billy with a magnificent pair of horns.
 
After breakfast everybody boarded the minibus (apart from David who travelled in Roy’s car as there was one too many of us to all get in the bus). Our first stop was at the local Spar supermarket to withdraw local currency from the cash machine and get food/drink to sustain us for the day. Swift added here whilst waiting for everyone to get back.
 
We saw several familiar, common species whilst travelling to our first destination, plus marsh harrier, white stork and hooded crow. Lewis pointed out over-flying ferruginous duck and red-footed falcon to us.
Hortobágy National Park, near Kócsújfalu
A brief 15 minute visit here for our first taste of the park. Bee-eater were heard as we got out of the bus, but only some of us were lucky enough to see them before they flew off. Sand martin, sedge warbler, carrion crow, rook, corn bunting, and a whinchat all seen. Best  were six red-footed falcons circling around in the distance.
Hortobágyi-halastó
A drive of about 15 km brought us to our next destination. This is one of the main centres of the park, formerly a fish farm. The first birds heard were nightingale and cuckoo, which was to become the norm for almost every place we visited. Within the first few metres we had heard, and seen, icterine warbler, pied flycatcher and bluethroat. Great egret, purple and squacco herons flew over. A Savi’s warbler delivered its loud, insect-like, reeling perched obligingly out in the open at the top of the reeds. A pair of ferruginous ducks with their distinctive white rumps were another nice find. Walking to the other side of the ponds to check-out nest boxes in the trees, whiskered tern and kestrel put in an appearance. A long-eared owl was found sitting in one of the large nest boxes. Walking back to the centre, a black-crowned night heron flew over and lesser whitethroat was singing in full view.
 
We hurried back to the centre as we were due to meet Sandor, a ranger from the National Park who was going to accompany us for the rest of the day, giving us access to areas of the park only available with an official guide. We ate our lunch under the canopy of the picnic area.
 
On the move again we saw our first Hungarian Grey Cattle (almost white and with impressive horns), and glimpsed wheatear and crested lark at a farm. Stopping at a small lake beside a quiet country road, we found greenshank, avocet, black-winged stilt, curlew, ruff, wood sandpiper and spotted redshanks. On the far side of the lake, and very difficult to get a clear view, was a marsh sandpiper.
Long-legged Buzzard Area (precise location unknown)
This stop was a large, grassy area where long-legged buzzards are breeding in the trees about 1km distant. We remained here for about half-an-hour but no luck finding the LLBs. Sandor spotted a tawny pipit, but I am not sure that anyone else saw it. A Montagu’s harrier was seen in the distance, and closer to us we got hooded crow, kestrel, skylark, white-winged and whiskered terns, marsh harrier and sedge warbler. A small flock of spoonbill flew over (there must have been an area of water fairly close by that we could not see) and the Montagu’s harrier appeared much closer to give us better views.
Great Bustard Site
After a stop for ice-cream in a village, Sandor led us off-road deep into the park. Roy, DL and SC saw red-footed falcon and a lesser grey shrike at a brief stop. Great bustard, Hortobagyi National ParkMoving a bit further the vehicles stopped and we were told to get out quietly and keep by the car/minibus so that we did not appear on the skyline – four great bustards were parading about 300metres away and they could be easily spooked. A fifth one was found slightly closer, a magnificent sight in the afternoon sunshine. A quail was calling close by and Steve heard a corncrake. Whinchat and yellow wagtail showed on the track ahead of us. Pochard, gadwall, purple heron and wood sandpiper were in the adjacent wetland. Someone claimed bittern, but I can’t remember who, or if it was seen, or only heard booming. Roller in Hortobagyi National Park
 
Another red-footed falcon put in an appearance as we left to return to the hotel and Steve managed to photograph a roller. Buzzard, stonechat and pheasant were seen on the journey back. The final bird of the day was serin, found in the tree tops at the hotel before dinner.
 

Today's List

Greylag Goose Gadwall
Mallard Pochard
Ferruginous Duck Quail (h)
Cormorant Bittern
Black-crowned Night-Heron Squacco Heron
Great White Egret Grey Heron
Purple Heron White Stork
Spoonbill Marsh Harrier
Montagu’s Harrier Buzzard
Kestrel Red-footed Falcon
Corn Crake (h) Coot
Great Bustard Black-winged Stilt
Avocet Lapwing
Ruff Curlew
Spotted Redshank Greenshank
Marsh Sandpiper Wood Sandpiper
Black-headed Gull Whiskered Tern
White-winged Tern Feral Pigeon
Collared Dove Turtle Dove
Cuckoo Long-eared Owl
Swift Bee-eater
Roller Wryneck
Crested Lark Skylark
Sand Martin Swallow
House Martin Yellow Wagtail
White Wagtail Robin
Nightingale Bluethroat
Black Redstart Whinchat
Stonechat Wheatear
Blackbird Song Thrush
Grasshopper Warbler (h) Savi’s Warbler
Sedge Warbler Icterine Warbler
Blackcap Lesser Whitethroat
Wood Warbler Chiffchaff
Spotted Flycatcher Pied Flycatcher
Blue Tit Great Tit
Golden Oriole Red-backed Shrike
Lesser Grey Shrike Jay
Magpie Rook
Carrion Crow Hooded Crow
Starling House Sparrow
Tree Sparrow Chaffinch
Serin Goldfinch
Linnet Reed Bunting
Corn Bunting  
Total 89 Species  

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